Previewing a Route in a Comp...

Although this is geared towards a competitor standing at the bottom of a route, about to have the route preview, almost any of it can be adapted to normal onsite "route reading"... hopefully you can take something from it and use it for your own climbing...

Tara & Molly at the EYC Ratho 2011

Previewing a route properly can mean the difference between moving smoothly through a section and wasting energy matching hands, searching for feet or down climbing to fix sequences. This is a skill and one that should be practiced. There are several things to consider when previewing a route such as rests, clipping stance, cruxes, alternate sequences, pacing, and distances between holds.

Here are a few tips that will help when previewing:

• Know the Start of the Route - One of the worst things that can happen is to not know where the start of your route is, or to preview the wrong route. Make sure you know where you have to start and that you are looking at the correct route. If no one else from your category is there then chances are you are not looking at the right route.

Some competitions do not specify the starting holds and you can start on what you can reach. Make sure that you choose starting holds that will put you in the correct sequence.

• Work Down Through Confusing Sequences - If you get to a section of the route where you can not determine the sequence look ahead and find the next hold that you know how to grab and work backwards. For instance if you find a confusing sequence and you see that five feet above is a hold that you know you have to grab with your left hand then you can find the previous hold that your right hand would have to be on and work the sequence down. Once you have worked back down through the sequence go back up it and continue on the route.

• Judge the Distance Between Holds - Know the distance between holds and what you are capable of. If you know a wall has 4'x8' panels or 3'x3' panels then it is much easier to measure the distance between holds, look at the panel sizes and approximate the distance. This will help when looking to skip a move or when you are worried about a large move.

• Walk Around - Most routes at larger competitions will be on very high steep walls. It is almost impossible to see the entire route from one location. Walk around and look at the route from numerous angles.

This does more than just allow you to see the whole route. If you are wondering how large or incut a hold is then stand back and get a di_ernt look at it, or walk way off to the side and try to see behind it. How much you can walk around will depend on the size of the area that you are given for the preview. In some competition you may be allowed to walk into the crowd or at least ask them to move.

• Dance the Sequence - When you are previewing it may help to move your hands and feet in the sequence that your are previewing. There are two reasons for this one is to help you memorize the sequence and the other is to make sure that you are not missing any moves. by moving your body in sequence of the route you will be able to remember the moves easier in isolation, similar to dancing. To be told a dance and then have to do it is alot harder than doing the dance as you are learning it.

• Talk to Others - Other competitors in your category will have Different opinions on sequences. This may be due to height, strengths or perceptions on the quality of the holds. In addition some people are better at reading a sequence that others. Talk to others and figure out what they are doing. It may be that you are reading it wrong or that you are assuming a hold is better than it is. This will also help so that when you go back to isolation you have the same terms for holds.

• Identify Crux Clips and Sequences - If you can identify the crux of a route from the ground then that will allow you to get set up for it better. Cruxes are not necessarily moves but can be clips as well. If you identify a crux clip then you can decide where the best place to clip it will be. It may be that you have to climb past it a little ways before clipping, or you may have to reach way up to clip it to avoid clipping in the middle of the crux.

• Plan Your Pace - It is just as important to identify the easy sections of a route as it is to see the cruxes. If you can spot the easier moves then you will know to move slower, chalk up and rest through these sections. You will also know where to move quickly to avoid wasting energy fooling around in the harder sections. Practice this on routes that you are onsighting. Try and move slow through the easy sections and quickly through the harder ones.

• Helpful Instruments - IFSC rules state that you are allowed to use any non electronic device to help preview or record the route. Basically this means that you can sketch the route or use binoculars to help preview the route. It is probably best to practice sketching a route numerous times at home or in local competitions before doing this at a large competition. It can take a long time to sketch an entire route. Drawing out small sections to discuss with others may help though.

• Use Your 40 Seconds - Before stepping onto the route you are given 40 seconds to do whatever you want. It is best if you get into a routine where you do the same thing every competition but here are a few suggestions.

1. Look at the confusing sequences. Chances are you have talked to someone in isolation about these sequences so make sure that what you decided to do will actually work.

2. Look at the first few moves. Make sure that you know the firstmoves on the route. You can get very nervous on a route if you do not know the sequence leaving the ground.

3. Massage your forearms and chalk up. Just stand there looking at the route and keeping your forearms loose and relaxed.

4. Be focused. Do what you have to do in order to be focused. This will be different for different people so try and perfect this at local competitions.

5. It also helps to be able to adapt on a route. If the sequence you saw in preview will not work you should be able to identify this on the route and quickly change your sequence to a better more efficient one. To do this it helps to always be looking two or three moves ahead. If you know you have to get your left hand on a hold that is a couple of moves away then you know that you must climb a certain sequence that will end with you left hand on that hold.

A good drill for this is to get on routes that you would normally onsight and not preview. Every move look ahead and call out your next two moves. This forces you to be looking ahead and constantly knowing the next few moves without knowing them from the ground.